I recently held my very own workshop!!! Yes, honest. Talk about stress. But I heard in our little art club that people didn't know about warm and cool colours, transparent colours etc. So, I plucked up the courage and gave it a go.
I was very influenced by two artists in particular. Hazel Soan whose workshops and holidays I have been on and is the Queen of Colour Information, and Colin Ratcliffe who was a tutor at Higham Hall in the Lake District who passed on the setting out of your palette and separating cool from warm colours.
Here is just some of the information that may be of use to one or two of you.
FIRE & ICE Here’s
the notorious colour wheel, that I like to think of as Fire and Ice. Bright
reds and yellows against the iceberg colours, some colours veering towards fire
and some towards ice. Eg. alizarin veers towards blue on the wheel where Ultramarine veers towards red. I use mostly transparent colours to avoid mud. I am going to ignore staining and non
staining, and lifting colours, that’s another story!
BOOKS THAT I RECOMMEND BY HAZEL SOAN (QUEEN OF COLOUR).
1. Collins 10 min Watercolours by Hazel Soan (which explains all aspects of watercolour, wet in wet/ colour mixing/
people etc) I think it’s great value for money.
2. Hazel Soan’s Watercolour Rainbow, which is a definitive
watercolour ‘colour’ book.
3. Learn Watercolour Quickly – Hazel Soan (see chapter 3)
COLOUR Cool
veers to green/blue and Warm hints of red
Here’s my palette with warm colours separate from the cool,
so I don’t have to think about where my cool colours are so that I don’t get a
bright mix if I don’t want one. Transparent
colours are the darkest (apart from yellow), you can hardly tell what
colour they are e.g. Pruss, alizarin and modern names like quinacridone and
permanent. Opaques are the lighter creamy colours and
are heavier pigments, which makes them opaque you more likely to get mud. E.g.
Cad Red. & Cobalt. Similar colours may be trans or opaque with different
manufacturers so always check.
NB If you put 2
cool colours you will get bright mix, 2 warm a dull colour, cool and warm
softer colour. Will make sense I hope.
Tubes v half pans. Tubes are softer and easier to mix
sometimes you have to scrub the half pans. But pans are easier to carry. Best of both worlds I squeeze tubes into
pans.
Artists v Students.
Colours are the same, main difference is the stronger pigment in the
artists so you need less to mix your colours.
WATER
Control of water is most important. Lots of water and the paint
moves and spreads more.
Less water and the paint won’t spread as far. Lay lighter colour down first and add second
colours alongside, same wetness, the second
colour pushes away the first. If you want to add a deeper controlled colour
like a spot, wait til the shine goes off the paper and drop in thicker
paint, the thicker the less it will spread.
I recommend 2 pots of water, one for clean water, so you are
less likely to get mud.
Big v small brush.
Large is quicker, looser, less control of water good for wet in wet.
Smaller brush need less water so more control, good for
details at the end.
Be bold with your colours. Watercolour dries much dries
lighter than you expect.
Milk,
cream, butter are the consistencies of paint, from washes to laying in thick colour into an already wet wash.
COOL & WARM VARIANTS OF THE PRIMARY COLOURS
Cool Red Alizarin
- Perm.
Rose
Warm Red Cad
Red - Vermillion, Pyrrol Scarlet
(mostly opaque)
Cool Yellow Aureolin
- Lemon Yellow (opaque),
Transparent Yellow
Warm Yellow Ind.
Yellow - Cad Yell, Hansa Yellow, New
Gamboge
Cool Blue Pruss
- Pthalo Blue, Winsor Blue
Warm Blue Ultra
- Cobalt (opaque)
Raw
Sienna – Cool
Yell.
Ochre - Warm (semi opaque)
COLOURS I CANNOT DO WITHOUT
MISCELLANEOUS INFO
Try and have a limited palette when painting, it’s more
harmonious and easier for colour mixing.
Opaques are useful at the end of the painting for highlights
and for oomph.
2nd wash pushes away the first
Ways to mix your colours/put a dry layer over another dry
layer on paper/blend on paper wet in wet/mix in your palette
List of Transparent/opaque/warm/cool/colour mixes (I treat semi
opaque as opaque)
NB Some makes are slightly different so you need to check. My notes are based mainly on Winsor & Newton.
TRANSPARENT:
(least likely to get mud if you use only transparent colours)
They’re darker and look almost black in your palette.
Warm Colours
Burnt Sienna
Burnt Umber
Indian Yellow
Sap Green
Ultramarine
OPAQUE: Chalky colours, more likely to cause muddy
colours. Generally brighter in your palette
Warm Colours
Cad. Orange
Cad. Red
Cad. Yellow
Cobalt Blue
Light Red
Sepia
Yellow Ochre
Cool + Cool = Bright
Warm + Warm = Dull
Cool + Warm = Softer colour
Opaques are good for adding highlights and oomph at the end
of the painting so don't ignore them!
Cool Colours
Alizarin Crimson
Aureolin (Yellow)
Permanent Rose
Prussian Blue/Pthalo Blue
Raw Sienna
Raw Umber
Viridian
Cool Colours
Cerulean Blue
Indigo
Lemon Yellow
Paynes Grey
Titanium White
Here are the examples I asked them to try using their own mixes. With some suggestions for colours which you might be able to read on the sample sheet.
Sorry my notes are a bit here and there, and in the end I have passed on to you most of my knowledge. Hope it helps just one more person.
I will do another short post, with some suggested colour mixes.
.Remember you’re an artist like a musician or a poet. You are here to entertain not record pictures exactly the same as a photograph, so take risks, change composition and colours. Let the colours flow into each other. Let your imagination run riot. Have fun. It’s playtime!
Remember, if you always do what you’ve always done, you’ll always get what you’ve always got!